Tratto

Tratto

4743 N 20th St

Phoenix, AZ 85016

(602) 368-3273

Chris Bianco opened this restaurant after the success of his downtown pizzeria. The menu here is expanded, and reservations are accepted. I arrived @ 7:00 with two companions and was seated immediately. The waiter was friendly, and had a good knowledge of the food and how it was prepared.

We decided to order several entrees and share them so that everyone could taste. We ordered the Papparadelle with Bolognese Sauce, Beef Braciole or Involtini if you are in Italy, and a Pizza Margherita. The Papparadelle came with fluted edges, cooked reasonably al dente, with an excellent Bolognese sauce loaded with chunks of meat. I found it to be on par with any I have ever eaten, though on a personal note I prefer the pasta to be more rustic and hand cut or torn into uneven "rags".  

My companions did not care for the Beef Braciole as much as I did, but allowing for different tastes as well as living in vastly different locations, I can accept that. I found the meat to be beautifully cooked, nicely presented on a bed of cooked cauliflower, and served with some properly roasted onions. Many people who make this dish tend to overpower it with lots of cheese and bread crumbs wrapped up in the beef. Unlike many variations on this recipe, this one was not overly salted or spiced, which I personally appreciated, as the flavor of the range fed beef came out nicely.

Many reviewers have said that the pizza is the best in the United States. I would differ with that opinion. Certainly, the pizza is very good, but I've eaten many a pizza that I felt was as good. The crust has a good flavor, is nicely thin with a nice edge, but the one we were served had an undercooked center that flopped down when picked up. The cheese is handmade on the premises, and is a real treat, melting into a lacy puddle swimming in a pool of an excellent sauce.

My biggest criticism was with the basil. This pizza is supposed to represent the Italian flag - 3 colors - red (sauce), white (cheese) and green (basil). The pizza was cut into 6 pieces and 5 leaves of basil were put on it. One person would not get a real piece of pizza margherita. Worse still, to me is that you only get a leaf of basil. Which bite do you eat it with? In my mind, the best pizza margherita I have ever eaten had a chiffonade of basil sprinkled all over it, so that you got some basil with each bite. My understanding is that that is how the pizza was supposed to be made originally. You wouldn't serve the queen one leaf of basil, now would you?

I must make mention of the bread that came with the meal. I don't know if it is made on the premises or not, but it was wonderfully crusty, with a chewy interior and a superior texture. It was served with a little extra virgin olive oil, and was really excellent. Overall, the premises were clean, though a little noisy at times. I'm hoping that Chris will put a whole lot more basil on his pizza's, as that is a basic part of the flavor of it. 4 stars for excellent service, good food, and general cleanliness.